Caprile (77 kms)
left Mel at around 10:30. Cristiano accompanied us as he now
found himself 'marooned' by an Italian rail strike and some sort of
Plan B was being worked on by Sergio to get him back to Milan in time
for work the next day.
us to 'Locanda Conti' first of all, his 'home from home' in Mel where
he normally stays, to meet the patron. Unfortunately it was full
when he tried to book. A great shame - the smell of home-cooking was
On leaving Mel, we headed
toward the Valle del Mis via Trichiana, Bribano and Sospirolo. At
Sospirolo, we once more met up with Daniela, Davide and Barbara and
enjoyed a leisurely ride up the side of the Lago di Mis. This is
a lovely quiet road which skirts along the lake, disappearing into
short unlit tunnels now and again, but don't let these put you off
using this route, they're no problem at all.
the head of the lake, we stopped for some food in a cafe/bar.
The others then rode with us a little further until rain started and
Daniela (who was riding the wooden rimmed FANINI - wonder if she knew
she had no brakes? ;-) had a problem with her gears. We
sheltered in a derelict 'Osteria' where Sergio did some running
repairs, and this was where we all finally parted company. They
heading back to Mel and we heading on for Caprile. As you'll see from
the map opposite, Autoroute (well my 2002 version) doesn't have the
road shown as continuing from the head of the lake, but trust me - it
After another couple of small
tunnels, we climbed up to
Tiser - a nice looking place, where we
received applause and shouts of encouragement from three women sat on
a bench at the entrance to the village! What a nice gesture (I
didn't like the look of Konrads though ;-))
road climbed on and as we reached the summit we met another couple
heading in the opposite direction who kindly took a photo for us. From
here, it was all downhill to Agordo.
Agordo to Alleghe it rained very heavily with the odd clap of
thunder. The sky was black. At Listolade, we took a side
road (it's shown as closed, but ignore it) which runs alongside the
main road. This got us off the busier main road as everyone, no
doubt caught out by the thunderstorm, all sped home. We passed
through Cencenighe and eventually arrived at Alleghe - which was
shut! There was one hotel open, but they didn't serve food, and
there didn't seem to be anywhere open where we could eat either!
This was a shame, as Alleghe is obviously quite a well heeled town
with a wonderful location on the lake shore. A very kind couple
and an old gentleman spent quite some time with us trying to find
somewhere open, telephoning various places, but no joy. April
Pedersen Santinon kindly pointed out (after our return) that perhaps we
were fortunate in finding Alleghe 'closed'. Apparently it was the
scene of a series of murders back in the 1930's / 40's.
Subsequent murders were
all done to hide the original murder, and the culprits were a family of
hotel owners (the Albergo Centrale) which, as Konrad reminds me, was the
one where the old gentleman, who was kindly trying to help us,
it was back on the bikes, and off we headed for Caprile.
Arriving in Caprile, we spotted the Hotel la Montanina and decided to
go for that one (we were wet, and hungry). What an inspired
choice this turned out to be. The owner was super helpful and
asked us if we would like to use the Sauna. We spent a good hour
in the Jacuzzi and Sauna, followed by a great meal. The total
bill for the triple room, sauna, meal and breakfast was approx. €170.
I was glad in a way that Alleghe was closed, otherwise we wouldn't
have found this hotel. Highly recommended by all of us.
hotel was very quiet. We were the only ones in apart from a
group of 5 young promising Austrian cross country skiers (I guess aged
from 15-20) who used cycling as a form of training for their
sport. The owner of the hotel told us they were apparently a
We all slept like the
proverbial log, and this was the hotel which changed our priorities
when searching out a hotel. The first question from now on would
be - 'avete la sauna?' :-)